Trade Masterclass – The Wine Classification by the Real Review

Great masterclass for the new entrants into The Real Review Wine Classification at Victoria by Farmer’s Daughter on Fed Square (on 22 Sep, Root Day).

TRR’s founder, Huon Hooke was joined by Kiwi counterpart, Stephen Wong MW, as well as Craggy Range winemaker, Ben Tombs. It takes a minimum 10 years to get into the classification and there were some great trans-Tasman and style counterpoints in the current 2024 and cellar release line up:

2024 Huia Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ

’24 was a small, slow ripening vintage, this certified organic SB, grown on glacial clay soils, handpicked, barrel-ferment. I got lemon verbena, crushed apple, golden kiwifruit, cashew, lemon peel. SW gave it 94/100, Top Rank.

2024 Oakridge ‘864 Drive Block Funder & Diamond Vineyard’ Chardonnay, Yarra Valley VIC

David Bicknell recently left the top job, but senior winemaker Tim Dexter stepped up. Vineyard is higher alt. for Yarra Valley (240m), close planted P58 clone on red volcanic soils, low yield (5 tonnes/h); then whole bunch pressed into oak (20% new), no MLF. I found it searing, intense, pure; smoky, lemony, salty-mineral, notes of artichoke and nougat. HH gave it 97/100, Top Rank.

2024 Pask Declaration Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay NZ

A much more voluptuous counterpoint to the Oakridge (to be fair, half the price); still, quite appealing and a bit of a time warp. Lots of MLF, I would say. I got buttery, apricot Danish, lemon butter, golden apple, beeswax, with notes of green hedgerow, and salted caramel. SW gave it 94/100, Top Rank.

2024 Eldridge Estate Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula VIC

Steve Flamsteed (Halliday Winemaker of the Year ‘27) makes this wine on the established 3h, 225 m alt. vineyard planted to MV6, G5, G5V1, 77, 115, and 114. Hugely satisfying pinot. Black cherry compote, red plum, pepper, leather, cured meats, and notes of farmyard. HH gave it 96/100, Top Rank.

2024 Home Hill Pinot Noir, Huon Valley, TAS

Aromatic, lush Tassie pinot from Huon Valley on the south of the Apple Isle, where there’s longer days during the growing season. I got cherry blossom, violets. Lavender notes, a bowl of summer cherries and raspberries, with truffle salt and woody spices. Palate has a round shape, but it still has great persistence, snappy acid, silky tannins. SK gave it 93/100.

2024 Craggy Range ‘Aroha Te Muna’ Pinot Noir, Martinborough NZ

Incredible depth, structure, and concentration; most people voted it the wine of the line up. A very dry, sun soaked, windy vintage that disrupted flowering, so very small berry size. From Dijon clones, made in amphora, then 18% new oak, unfined, unfiltered. I got lavender, liquorice, raspberry, cherry, rhubarb, charcuterie, oolong tea, white pepper, fine tannins unfurling slowly. SW gave it 97/100 and Top Rank.

2018 Bekkers McLaren Vale Grenache, Cellar Release

From highly regarded French born winemaker, Emmanuel Bekkers, recently knighted by the French government for strengthening ties between our wine communities. This Grenache is in peak condition. Made with viticulturalist husband, Toby, from a blend of high and low country across 3 or 4 subregions. 2018 was a warmer vintage, it was 20% whole bunch, raised in 500L puncheons. Raspberry, kirsch (some tertiary), cherry ripe, dried rose petal, Xmas spice, power with a spine of acidity. HH have it 96/100, Top Rank.

2021 The Story Wines R. Lane Vintners ‘Westgate Vineyard’ Syrah, Grampians VIC

Rory Lane’s top label, a cellar release from old vine material planted in 1969. The clones came from the heritage St Ethel vineyard (est. 1890s) in Grampians. The Westgate sits on the border of warm and cool climate, outstanding for syrah, 50% whole bunch, wild yeast. I found it super complex and concentrated, with lots of lively aromatics; bramble, blackberry, blackcurrant, cassis, Ribena, red liquorice, umami, five spice, bergamot tea, layered tannins. AB gave it 96/100, Top Rank.

2019 d’Arenberg ‘The Dead Arm’ Shiraz, McLaren Vale SA

Fourth gen. Chester Osborne is looking after his 100-year-old legacy with boundless energy and eccentricity. Couldn’t count the labels produced, but this one’s well known. Inky and full bodied, loads of structure even as a cellar release; mulberry and plum, blackberry, black peppercorn, tarry notes, tannins for days to match a bbq steak. HH gave it 92/100, Top Rank.

2024 Yarra Yering ‘Dry Red Wine No. 1’, Yarra Valley, VIC

From the original 1969 vineyard. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon /16% Merlot /11% Malbec /3% Petit Verdot. Winemaker Sarah Crowe still uses the ½ tonne fermenters invented by Bailey Carrodus. Fantastic wine; summer cherries, cassis, pencil shavings, granitic, blueberries; then fresh alpine herbs, cigar box, olive. Silky tannins, incredible length. SK gave it 98/100, Top Rank.

Cullen ‘Diana Madeline’ 2024, Margaret River WA

Vanya Cullen’s tribute to her mother, 100% biodynamic, cabernet dominant blend, grown in Margaret River’s Mediterranean climate, made in clay amphora. Will clearly aged decades, but amazing now. I got ripe, dark, fleshy plum, mulberry, cassis, smoky pepper, bay leaf, ripe, muscular tannins, depth and length for days. HH gave it 97/100.